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Walk into a materials store and you'll find dozens of cement brands and formulas, but they all fall into 3 main groups by use, and you must "never cross groups" toward a weaker one
High-strength cement for load-bearing work: columns, beams, slabs, foundations, roads. The bag will say "Portland Type 1"; it costs more than the other groups and is the strongest Don't: use it for plastering — it sets fast and shrinks a lot, and the whole wall will craze
A formula for laying bricks with good, sticky adhesion that holds the right amount of water so bricks don't draw water out of the mortar. Used for clay bricks and concrete blocks; lightweight blocks need a dedicated "lightweight block mortar" because the joints are much thinner (2–3 mm) — ordinary masonry mortar can't substitute, or the wall will crack and come loose
The finest texture and most flexible, giving a smooth surface without crazing. Subtypes are general plaster, fine plaster (for an extra-smooth finish) and lightweight-block plaster. The deciding factor in plaster quality isn't just the cement, but water curing — after plastering, wet it morning and evening for 3–7 days; walls that aren't cured will almost certainly craze
Ready-mixed bags (sand already added, just add water) cost more but give consistent quality, suiting repairs or less consistent tradespeople. For big jobs, mixing on site is cheaper, but quality depends on the sand and the mix ratio. For large structural pours, order ready-mix concrete (truck mixer) from a plant for the most accurate strength control, specifying the compressive strength (e.g. 240 ksc) the engineer set in the drawings
Check the production date on the bag — cement older than 2–3 months, or bags that feel lumpy and hard, has deteriorated; don't accept it. Store cement on site out of the rain, on pallets off the ground